Wiker does stuff

It's been a rough winter for the Bluegrass. A foot and a half of snow and ice in the middle of February effectively closed my entire city for a week. Watching the South's ineffective efforts at grappling with snow was a sad, sad thing. Thankfully it melted soon, flooding the streets until the following week when the temperature again dipped below freezing and turned the entire city into a skating rink. That was followed by another foot of snow. I stood in the ghost town of Krogers, watching a hollow-eyed woman load nine gallons of milk onto her cart, and was silently grateful for growing up in Ohio, a land of diverse and terrible weather. We Ohioans know how to hunker down and survive off saltine crackers and ranch dressing for however long we need to.

But it seems like spring is finally here. The roads are flooded again and there's a pothole like a tiny Lake Erie in front of my house. Whitlow grass, hairy bittercress, and spring beauty tied for first place as the first flower up. Every farm pond is crowded with ducks. The salamanders are on the move, and the spring peepers are singing. I've been making some changes too.

First off, I am an ex-student no longer. I'm now a half-semester into my Bachelor of Science from Eastern Kentucky University. It's been an interesting transition; most of my wildlife credits transferred from my Associate degree, and what I'm mostly lacking now is the general education requirements. So even though I transferred in as a junior, I'm still in freshman classes like Lifetime Wellness 101 (also known as How Not To Make Bad Choices and Eat Only Twizzlers for Dinner Because This is the First Time You've Lived Away From Your Parents). But it's okay--the end goal is to get that degree and from there move on to the next end goal.

Second off, the professor in charge of the aquatic macroinvertebrate lab at Eastern has graciously agreed to let me volunteer to gain some experience in a laboratory setting. The goal for that one is by the end of the semester to be ready to take the taxonomic certification offered through the Society for Freshwater Science. Macroinvertebrates are mostly unfamiliar territory for me, so we'll see how it goes; but it's something to work towards anyway.

Thirdly off, I transferred parks to be closer to school. So now instead of 25 acres, I'm working on 700ish acres of deciduous forest adjacent the Kentucky River. Lots more to explore, and lots more in terms of species diversity.

Fourthly off, I got a job in Pennsylvania for the summer, on a field crew looking at how oil and gas development affects birds. It looks to involve lots of hiking and camping and early mornings and bears, so that's exciting. I've been pretty sedentary in Kentucky for the past year and a half or so and it feels good to be on the move again. Plus, who can complain when your actual job is to look at birds? (And possibly get chased by bears).

After that--well, it would be an exaggeration to say I have a game plan for what's going on next, but I guess that's part of the fun.

A foggy morning in the Kentucky foothills--March 2015

Pleasant View Farm at Battlefield Park--camera time

The old Pleasant View Farm is located at Battlefield Park, part of the site of the 1862 Battle of Richmond in Richmond, Kentucky. The area was originally settled in 1801 by a Joseph Barnett. Eventually I'll make a better post about this very neat little park, but for now here's some pictures.

Barnett family burial plot on the old farm site, a remnant from the early settlement days of Kentucky.

Joshua, a servant of the family who "died by a stroke of lightning."

The interpretive sign states that these box-tomb style grave markers were unusual for early settlement Kentucky and were possibly a carryover tradition from the British Isles. However, I have seen similar box tombs in graveyards around Kentucky and eastern Ohio so I don't know whether it was really that uncommon, or maybe common in areas where Europeans of certain descent settled. Something to look into, anyway.

Possibly a servant's grave?

The old farmhouse, finished around 1824

Detail of stained glass above the front door

View from the front porch

Back side of the house

The slave quarters

End-of-Season Hibernation (and a trip to the Red)

I guess it just comes with the territory of being a young, undereducated individual in the field of natural resources, but it seems like every time the end of a season rolls around you're finishing up one job and scrambling to find another. Most entry-level wildlife jobs are transitory by nature and you go into them knowing that in a couple months you're going to walk away and most likely never see those places or people again. I got a little lucky this year because I double-booked myself; in addition to my full-time job with Parks and Recreation, I did a fall stint as an educator at an environmental camp for 4th and 5th graders. Of course I didn't sleep and consumed as much coffee as a small country, but I figure only two months of it can't do too much long-term damage, and it's nice to have Job #1 still there for you when Job #2 ends.

A good day in pond study class

The last school wrapped up at the end of October and I've re-situated myself back at the park and hunkered down for a long slow winter. Like the red-eared sliders in the pond outside the window, wildlife kids undergo somewhat of a period of dormancy over the winter. Exciting seasonal field jobs are scarce; the best strategy is to find somewhere comfortable to pass the winter and spend your time wistfully paging through the Internet wildlife job boards.

As a last celebratory get-together my lovely camp coworkers and I headed down for a day jaunt to Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest. To paraphrase Saturday Night Live's Stefon the tourism correspondent, this place has everything: Poisonous mushrooms, a suspension bridge, a snake venom extraction facility, a haunted railroad tunnel, and a pizza joint that serves rice as a topping. We started with a brief stop-in at the Kentucky Reptile Zoo to get our snake fix:

This absurd and fascinating little guy is a horned viper (Cerastes sp) from North Africa

Bitis gabonica, or Gaboon Viper. According to the interwebs this species has the longest fangs of any viperid--up to 2 inches.

From closer to home, a copperhead showing off his dead-leaf camo. This one is the southern subspecies (Agkistrodon controtrix contortrix) 

The proper way to enter Red River Gorge with style is via the Nada Tunnel. Built for use by a logging railroad during the early 1900s, this one lane, 900-foot tunnel through the mountain is not for the claustrophobic or people who don't like dark places with literal tons of sandstone over their heads. Having gone to school right next to the infamous Moonville Tunnel I have a special affection for haunted railroad tunnels, and the Nada Tunnel has its share of alleged specters and mysterious lights. Tragically, it's a verifiable fact that the construction of the tunnel was not without at least two casualties. One man was killed while trying to thaw frozen dynamite near a campfire; another man was wounded in the blast and a dog apparently died as well. It's hard to know what to say about someone who thaws dynamite out over a fire, but I guess we all have our moments. Some of us are just lucky and live through them.

The Red is full of dramatic rocks.

We were pressed for time and only took a short hike down a connector trail to the junction of the Sheltowee Trace Trail. A suspension bridge spans the Red River at the connection and provides lovely views, as long as you don't mind heights and rotten boards underfoot.

View of the Red River from the Sheltowee Trace suspension bridge

You can sort of see the Sheltowee Trace trail mark on the right hand side of the beam. The trail is named after Daniel Boone, whose name while living with the Shawnee tribe was Sheltowee or Big Turtle.

The Appalachian Trail has been on my bucket list since I was old enough to tie my own bootlaces, but it's hard to come by the time and money to tromp across the country for a whole summer. At around 300 miles the Sheltowee Trace Trail seems much more doable. Maybe next spring I'll crawl out of my den and do a little more wandering around down there.

What's Blooming in the Bluegrass: Snapshot in Purple & Yellow

It's time once again for me to grace the internet with my mediocre photography! It's been a dry summer so far in the wild lands of Kentucky, but that hasn't stopped the flowers from blooming. Here's the highlights (so I have no excuse not to recognize them when I see them again next year).

This awesome little flower of fields and roadsides is Coreopsis tinctoria. It's got an obnoxious amount of common names, most of them some variation of tickseed, coreopsis or calliopsis; one of these, Dyer's Coreopsis, comes from its use as a reddish dye by some Native American tribes. 

Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta)

The ornamentally-named Everlasting Pea, Laythrus latifolius. Unfortunately it's an introduced species, but it makes quite a show with those hot pink blossoms and winged stem.

Purple Coneflower  (Echinacea purpurea) and friend

Passiflora incarnata, Purple Passionflower. I don't know what's going on with this plant. It looks like three different kinds of flowers that tried to smash together into one, or something from Dr. Seuss. 

Bonus! Who doesn't love some good fungus? Mushrooms and fungus are something I really struggle with identifying, so when I find flashy ones like this it gives me the warm fuzzies. On the left is a type of Bird's Nest Fungus growing on a bed of mulch, one of its preferred habitats. On the right is Xylaria polymorpha, picturesquely known as "Dead Man's Fingers." It's variable in appearance but always pretty unattractive (sorry fungus). 

Camp Nelson, Kentucky: I came here for the birds, but look at all this history

If you get to play in the woods for a job, what do you do on days off? Play in the grasslands, of course. Accordingly this past week I hied myself to the wilds of Jessamine County, Kentucky to explore Camp Nelson Civil War Heritage Park. A solid thirty-minute drive south of Lexington, it took me even longer when my so-called smart phone got a little confused about what direction we should be going in.

Thanks Siri! I guess the sign did say "No Outlet."

After you find it, it's shockingly obvious. The giant sign and big iron gates help. The park itself is over 500 acres of hiking trails, but as you pull up you have the option of taking a tour of the old officer's quarters, or stopping by the visitor's center, a barnlike structure where you can go for all your brochure and fake Civil War hat needs. I went in and proceeded to get educated.

Originally founded in 1863 to supply Union efforts in Tennessee, parts of Kentucky and Virginia, Camp Nelson eventually became one of the biggest recruiting and training depots for African Americans escaping slavery to join the Union Army. It also housed African American refugees as well as the families of Union soldiers from east Tennessee trying to escape Confederate occupation. The site was originally chosen because, and I shall quote from Capt. T. E. Hall, Chief Quartermaster, as written in the informational brochure: "It is naturally fortified on three sides by the [Kentucky] river and [Hickman] creek, the cliffs of which average four hundred feet high and perpendicular...Every approach to the camp is commanded by mounted guns and...it is one of the most impregnable points in the country."

Not much is left and it's hard to imagine that it was once a giant encampment apparently encircled by some heavy artillery. In spite of the guns, however, Camp Nelson never saw any action. The closest it came was the summer of 1863 when General John Hunt Morgan passed through the area, sacking things as he went. Camp Nelson hunkered down for combat but General Morgan passed by on his way farther north, up to no good as usual.

There's a twenty-minute informational video that hits the high points of the park history, and the museum gives you an idea of what day-to-day life at Camp Nelson would have looked like. It's both informative and slightly creepy as you see.

Reproduction of quartermaster's depot

Soldiers

Hospital ward

Refugee shanty

I'm just not very comfortable with mannequins.

As soon as I walked out past the buildings, I saw the best thing I've seen in Kentucky in a long time.

LOOK AT ALL THIS GRASS!

It's not that I have anything against woods and hollers, but there's just something special about acres and acres of open land that hasn't been attacked by a lawn mower. Although it's mostly timothy and other man-introduced grasses, if you squint you can sort of imagine it looking like the oak savannas that occurred naturally across Kentucky hundreds of years ago. The first bird to greet me at the trail head was a singing Orchard Oriole, a first for this year. A few dozen yards in and meadowlarks started exploding out of the tall grass like popcorn. It's hard to imagine, standing in the middle of the field and going deaf from the meadowlarks, but according to a nearby marker this is the mass burial place of Camp Nelson refugees who succumbed to disease and poor conditions. Over 200 Union solders were also buried at "Graveyard One" but were later removed to the Camp Nelson National Cemetery down the road.

Once I got used to the clamor of meadowlarks, I picked up on the sound of some very irritated nesting Bobolinks as well as a Grasshopper Sparrow's thin buzz. Judging by the noise bobwhites were abundant, but none of them seemed inclined to show themselves. After soaking in the grassland birds for a while I made my way toward the far side of the park where, according to the map, old stone fortifications overlooked the valley of Hickman Creek. I should mention that up till that point the trails were very wide mowed paths, shorts and sandals friendly. As soon as I entered the wooden portion of the park I realized that such luxuries could no longer be expected (after all, trees are harder to mow over). But if there's one thing that I really took away from my college education it's that trails are for sissies.

See that trail? Neither do I.

Besides, up until that point all the important historical landmarks had been marked by big yellow flags, and how hard could those be to find? Parks are always covered in helpful signage to help the confused public understand how to navigate them. Presently I came upon this helpful sign:

This way to Union soldiers 

The woods were very dense but I could approximately orient myself by the sound of Hickman Creek coming from the valley to my left. Around three hundred mosquito bites later, when I was beginning to have the feeling of having taken a wrong turn, but was soon reassured by the presence of another informative sign:

Still haven't found those Union soldiers? Keep going.

After a few hundred miles with no Union soldiers or signs thereof, I was forced to assume that I'd missed a turn and walked straight off the map. I backtracked all the way back out to where I had entered the woods. In spite of the fact that I was doing some serious speedwalking, I was able to nab the usual woodland suspects--wood-pewee, a couple species of woodpecker, a pair of hen turkeys, Red and White-eyed Vireos, and a few more. A doe flushed out of the woods and there were plenty of coyote and raccoon tracks. 

There's a lot more to explore and I'm sure I'll be heading back out to Camp Nelson to tour the officer's house and find the Hickman Creek fortifications without getting lost in the wilderness of Jessamine County. Or I might just go sit in the middle of the timothy and listen to meadowlarks and pretend it's a prairie.

Then go home and pick off ticks for five hours.

Get Your History On @ the Lexington Cemetery

Today's Adventure Time took place in the wilds of the Lexington Cemetery and Arboretum in Lexington, Kentucky. Dating back to 1849 (allegedly to deal with high mortality from a cholera epidemic going on at the time), Lex Cem is on the National Register of Historic Places and worth a visit from anyone passing through the Bluegrass.

My visits to the cemetery are mostly for birding purposes; it's also a 170-acre arboretum and a local birding hotspot, especially during migration when it provides a safe haven from urban sprawl for migrants passing through. According to eBird, around 150 different species have been seen at the park. With the weather at sauna-like levels of heat and humidity the birds were pretty quiet today; the most exciting find was my first-of-year Scarlet Tanager.

Even though the birding was slow, there's plenty of other stuff to see--Lex Cem has enough to hold the interest of any history buff or connoisseur of the grotesque and Gothic. It's the final resting place of, most famously, statesman and orator Henry Clay, and includes a massive monument where he and his wife are buried (it's literally so tall you can't really get a good look at it).  Directly next to the Clays' tomb is a huge American basswood, which nearby signage claims is the largest basswood in the United States.

Sharing the cemetery with Union soldiers as well as fellow Confederates is General John Hunt Morgan of Morgan's Raid fame. Morgan and his "Calico Raiders" went farther north into Yankee territory than any other Confederate force during the Civil War. I spent a lot of years in southern Ohio counties scattered with historical markers indicating Morgan had passed that way, so after moving to Lexington I felt obligated to go visit the burial place of the general who had (way back in 1863) sacked my former stompin grounds.

Evidently other people like to visit as well. On previous visits I've found flowers, little rock stacks, keychains and a passive-aggressive Union flag. 

And of course there's enough statuary to satisfy the morbid Victorian in all of us:

 For those with paranormal interests, the mausoleum has the obligatory dark shadows, screams, and cold spots. And if none of that stuff interests you and you just like fuzzy adorable things, I'm pretty sure Lex Cem has the highest chipmunk-per-acre concentration in all of Lexington.